Monday, April 9, 2012

Vogue 1208

Remember this dress?  I made it!  It doesn't look like that though... I think you have to be tall to look like that..

One of the things I really liked about it was the neckline. It isn't quite as elegant on me though. (Oh, and that pretty crystal headband- I put on all those stones yesterday too.  Almost a gross...super sparkly. I got the crystals on sale!)

I sewed this dress on Sunday.  It is SUPER quick (although I took some short cuts since I didn't really understand all the instructions).  It is bias cut so it has to hang for 24 hours, so I hemmed it today.

Front view:

This is a straight size 14 (for non-sewers, store sizes and pattern sizes have no correlation!).  My bust fit in 14, my waist in 18 and my hips in 16.  When I made it I planned on cutting a 14 and grading to make it bigger in the lower body.  Honestly, I wish I had made a 12!  I think the neckline is too big for my shoulders, and the whole thing just feels loose. It is described as "fitted" but NO WAY.  I have a huge amount of ease in the tummy, and I am many sizes too small for me! If I do make a 12 (which I don't have in my pattern envelope, so I won't) then I might grade out to the 14 for the waist, but this is plenty big.

Back view:

(The fabric is quite wrinkly- some fell out with the hanging but I could NOT get it to press out.  There is also so extra fabric in the back that I think a swayback adjustment would help, but I just don't get alterations.  I don't have the patience or the money to learn to make them... so I just cut patterns as is and hope.)

Here is a close up of the bow.  I didn't do the "knot" detail because it involved pressing pleats, and my fabric was having none of that.  Plus I think this looks fine.  Here you can see how the lining peaks out.  Since I can't get anything to press down, I don't know how to fix that. Honestly, it doesn't bother me. (Oh, and my bra won't peak out- I plan to wear strapless!)

Here is one of the short cuts.

I didn't understand the instructions to join the sleeves at ALL, so I turned the dress back around, sewed up the seams 1/4", flipped it out and joined them with 3/8 seams (instead of 5/8 since I used up 1/4).  You can tell I did this if you are a sewer and look at the sleeve view on the none bow side. It puckers just a bit.  But Kevin (who is super picky) didn't notice until I pointed it out, so once again, I'm not concerned- it's not couture.

Here is another short cut.

The hem is shorter than I intended (but I like it) because 1) I hemmed it before hanging, since I didn't see the instruction and had to cut the hem off since seam ripping black on black on fragile fabric was not working and 2) The first hem I did had over an inch in variance! Hugely uneven, almost purposefully aysmettrical looking.  Kevin helped me mark the current hem, and it looks MUCH better.  But, so it wouldn't be even shorter, rather than turning twice, I just turned once.  The black serger thread makes it so that you can't tell even if it flips up a bit.

So what does a formal dress for a cruise cost?
The pattern was $3.99
The black fabric, crepe back satin, $12.45 (4.98/yd) The bias cut wastes more fabric than it uses- hopefully I can find something to do with the remnants.
The lining $3.98 ($1.99/yd). 
So $20.42.   I could probably find a dress on sale for that, but you don't get that awesome- I made this!!! feeling.
(Notion used was bias tape I've had in my stash as long as I can remember, a new needle, and some coats and clark stash thread.  We'll call it $22...)

Quick question- does anyone know what understitching is?  It told me to understitch the lining.  Does that mean sew the lining seam allowance to the dress seam allowance?  I googled and still couldn't tell.  So I just didn't do anything.... 

Oh, one more question- do you think I should try to take in the dress a bit in the upper body, so it has more shaping and looks less like a sack of potatoes, or just leave well enough alone?  I'd do that after the cruise.  I am leaving this as is for now.


Michelle said...

Here is a video on how to understitch. It was new to me too.

I think your dress looks fine. Good job!

Jessim said...

Thanks for the video. It sounds like understitching is the solution to the lining peeking out.

Brad & Kimber said...

Well, I'm impressed!

T. Sedai said...

Cute dress!

Also, I have nominated you for an award on my blog - no pressure to accept, but you are welcome to post the Liebster Award to your blog!

T. Sedai said...

I thought I would respond to your question here so you would see it - I don't think you have to pass the award on to sewing blogs necessarily - that isn't really in the rules anywhere. I dunno, it is just supposed to be something fun, so I figure you can give it to whoever you like!

Tanit-Isis said...

It's very cute, congratulation on conquering the bias! (I have a tendency to just cut off hems when they go wonky, too...)

Good luck with your new rolled hem foot!